June 21, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Dixie Truckers Home




     Established in 1928 in McLean, Illinois, on Route 66, the Dixie Truckers Home has survived all these years because it was lucky enough not to be bypassed with the coming of the interstate. Old 66 in that area was simply improved and expanded, magically turning into new Interstate 55. Traffic never stopped flowing past the stop's pumps, restaurant, and for a while, a small Mother Road museum. The establishment has endured its share of hardships over the years, including bankruptcy in 2001 and a worrisome switch to corporate ownership in 2003. It actually burned to the ground in 1965, but through it all this truck stop has remained open for business continuously since the day it was founded, except for a few hours that busy day of the fire.
     I first visited the Dixie in 2005, and yes, I did have the "broasted" chicken. The waitress warned me that the house specialty would take 20 minutes to prepare, but that was no problem for a traveler from the two-lane. She must have mistaken me for a busy I-55 trucker. Log Book: 150 miles motored on old 66.

June 20, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Funks Grove



Funks Grove, population 310, can be a little tricky to find, though it is just a quick jump over the railroad tracks that Route 66 follows in this part of Illinois. The area was settled by the Funk family, of course, and contains a natural grove of maple trees, of the kind that fills buckets with sap to make maple syrup. The Funks, thinking outside the box (who says maple syrup has to come from Vermont?), have been makers of their own syrup since 1891. You can still pop in and buy some during a Route 66 tour, though I imagine the supply to be limited. That's their own famous misspelling on the sign that points the way to the family business. Log Book: 144 miles motored on old 66.

June 19, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Lexington




     Lexington is one of the oldest towns in the state of Illinois, a tired-looking community with an agricultural heritage. The town has also relied on the transportation industry since 1854, when it became an early Illinois railroad stop. It transitioned in the 1920's and 30's to a typical Route 66 stop-over, providing restaurants, motels, and a peak of nine gas stations when the 66 traffic was flowing. But Lexington began to lose the travel business as early as the 1940's, when a new alignment of the old road steered traffic just to the west of town, a fact pointed out by Jack Rittenhouse in his 1946 guide book to Route 66. The opening of Interstate 55 in the 1970's made it even harder to draw in the usual tourists, because who wants to stop in a small town when he can speed along to bigger and better places? As evidence, the once popular Oasis Drive-In sits idly by the side of some old 66 pavement, its sign slowly rusting since they shut the place down in 1976.
    For the Route 66 roadie, Lexington has Memory Lane, a one mile stretch of original 66 pavement complete with old billboards and Burma-Shave signs. Ironically, one has to hoof it to enjoy this 66 attraction, as car traffic is allowed only on special occasions. Lexington also displays an art-deco neon sign advertising the town itself, a nice touch. Log Book: 119 miles motored on old 66.

June 17, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Chenoa




     Chenoa is a town located in the heart of agricultural Illinois that did benefit as a Route 66 stop, but probably didn't need it. Established in 1854 to support the local farming community, it also served as a grain shipping center, purposely located at the crossing of two railroad lines. Both railroads also provided passenger service through the town, and as the years went by and rail traffic faded, Route 66 car and truck traffic was there to replace it. Still in good shape today after the arrival of the interstate, the town supports some small scale manufacturing, several antique dealers, and two long time businesses - a large roofing company active for more than 75 years, and the Chenoa Pharmacy, operating since 1889. Moving forward, Chenoa has plans in the works to build an ethanol factory in town.
     For the Route 66 traveler and photographer, Chenoa offers some classic small town architecture and some neat murals painted in the spirit of old 66. Log Book: 110 miles motored on old 66.

Illinois Route 66


     Road Closed. An abandoned section of Illinois Route 66. In Illinois, the "End of 66" occurred in 1977, when it was officially decommissioned as a federal highway. My Route 66 era began here in 2005, with a quick tour of the old road limited to the state. In 2006, I got serious about 66, driving the two-lane from Chicago to Oklahoma City. In 2007, I followed up and completed the run, from OKC all the way to the Santa Monica Pier. My obsession didn't end there in California, of course, as I continue to make shorter runs to fill in the blanks, and to say hello to some of my new 66 friends.
     One needs to be a bit of an economist to understand and appreciate the history of Route 66. This is especially true while driving at 25 mph through the near-deserted downtowns of once thriving cities and towns. Of course, most of the decline in the communities that line the old road can be traced to the arrival of the interstate, but some of the towns that are slowly deteriorating tell the story of post war America. The run down suburbs of Chicago and St. Louis can in part be attributed to the loss of the manufacturing jobs that originally built those communities, those jobs sent overseas or lost because we Americans just don't make things anymore. The mining towns of Oklahoma led the world in the production of zinc from early in the 20th century to the end of WW II, but depletion and world competition after the war shut down the mines by the 1970's. Other factors for the downturn in some 66 communities include the loss of family farms in Illinois, the depletion of gold mines in Arizona and California, the obsolescence of railroad towns all along the road, and also the jet age - who piles the kids in the car anymore for a family vacation? These are just some of the things to consider while on a Route 66 tour. A town needs a reason.

June 15, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Odell

     The restored Standard Oil gas station in Odell, Illinois, where my Route 66 adventures began. In 2005, inspired by some wonderful roadside photography in the Route 66 books authored by Michael Wallis and Michael Witzel, I drove a limited test run on the two-lane in Illinois, just to check it all out. The original sightseeing plans called only for photography at the many attractions that populate Illinois 66, with no desire on my part to meet the locals or absorb the local history. In hindsight, that sounds like a naive and shortsighted approach to the Mother Road.
     Lucky for me, though, the Illinois 66 people are exceptional at what they do, and my very first stop was at one of their success stories, the station in Odell. My photography of that structure's building and pumps was completed in a very short time that day, even after I made sure to get in close to capture the great Standard Oil sign swinging in the breeze. After that, I was ready to bolt.
     That's when an alert attendant stuck her head out and invited me inside. This lovely young lady gave me a tour of the station, pointing out the garage's antique equipment and recalling its place in 66 history, but she also spoke of the consequences to the entire town with the arrival of the interstate that detoured traffic around Odell. During our discussion, 66 roadies from other parts of the USA happened by, road stories were exchanged, and I was hooked. For the rest of that trip and on all subsequent trips, my first priority was to meet the locals, especially the longtime business owners of the hotels, restaurants and stores that are always happy you dropped by. And when I got home, I actually read the stories surrounding the pictures in those great works of Route 66.

June 14, 2011

Illinois Route 66



Leaving Chicago behind, the cornfield and barn become the dominant roadside attractions between the small towns of Illinois 66. The Meramec Caverns Barn, near Cayuga, was restored by the Route 66 Association of Illinois Preservation Committee, with its own tiny exit off the two-lane for picture taking. There are also many abandoned sections of the old highway in this part of the state, where one can walk along the cracked pavement and imagine who might have traveled it in the 1930's or 40's. Also in the area, a popular restored gas station is Odell's main attraction, and the Route 66 Hall of Fame Museum is not to be missed in Pontiac. Log Book: 44 miles motored on old 66.

Illinois Route 66 - Chicago






Old Route 66 begins in front of the Art Institute at Adams and Michigan, so go inside and enjoy some art. Take a stroll to the fountain in nearby Grant Park, then go ride the elevator to the top of the Sears Tower (or whatever they call that building today). After that, walk north on State Street and enjoy the skyscrapers, with the really neat ones clustered around the Chicago River. When your feet get tired, find a Red Line station on State and take the train to the North Side to see a Cubs game at Wrigley Field. Photographs: The Chicago River, Wrigley Field, and a building being hit by a laser beam from the planet Mongo.

June 13, 2011

Illinois Route 66 - Chicago




     Thanks for coming along. This blog will take the entire Route 66 trip, not stopping until we hit the Pacific Ocean. "More than 2,000 miles all the way..." 
     Most Route 66 roadies journey west, making Chicago the starting point for those attempting to travel the entire highway. To explore the city, I either get a hotel room near the Chicago River and walk around, or, if I feel the need for some gambling, stay at a casino hotel in nearby Joliet and take the train to town. These photos showcase the Chicago skyline, a great angle for the old Wrigley Building, and famous Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park.