Oklahoma Route 66 - Round Barn

     The Round Barn of Arcadia was built in 1898 with tornadoes in mind, hence the round shape thought to offer some protection from Oklahoma's stormy weather. The barn never was knocked down by a storm, but it had deteriorated quite a bit anyway by the late 1980's. (See the "before" photo above that hangs today inside the barn.) It was wonderfully restored by a group of local retirees in 1992, no easy task as the old place is 45 feet high and 60 feet in diameter, with a second story inside. The curved indoor planks of the restored roof is an amazing site, and I just did not have the photographic equipment to do it justice. (The photo here is just a grainy point & shoot.) You'll have to go inside and see it for yourself.
     As impressive and colorful as the barn was for me, the best part of my visit was meeting Mr. Sam Gillaspy, a lifelong resident of Arcadia (bottom). 81 years old at the time, Sam led me on an informative tour of both floors of the structure, but I enjoyed even more hearing about life on Sam's nearby farm. It was something quite alien and fascinating to someone who hails from the suburbs of New Jersey, and this is why we travel, isn't it?  I live in a town of 30,000 people and don't know most of them, including the people on my own block. That's why I found it enchanting to hear about the barn dances that were held here in Arcadia, events that brought together a community to celebrate and enjoy life together. To bring your best girl and to show her off in such a setting as this, that must engender a simple and homey pleasure that most of us modern city folk will never know. Log Book: 832 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Chandler

     The Town Fathers of Chandler, Oklahoma are definitely low key when it comes to the town's promotion. They emphasize in their official history that, over the years, the town has never had more than 3,000 residents, was not an oil boom town despite all the crude being pumped around it, and wasn't really into all that cotton being grown in the surrounding fields. Reporting about current day Chandler by their Chamber of Commerce is not much more informative, just a stale list of small businesses. All I can infer then, as a 66er, was that the town did benefit from the building of Route 66 in the 1920's, then lost all that commerce with the coming of the Turner Turnpike in the 1950's. Jack Rittenhouse, a 66er from an earlier era, reported that the town was indeed an agricultural trading center at the time of his visit, shipping "considerable honey and pecans." Further reporting from 66 travelers is always welcome.

     Chandler's Route 66 heritage is more upbeat. The Oklahoma Route 66 Association is on Manvel Street, and there is a neat looking Route 66 Interpretive Center. The Oklahoma Law Enforcement Museum and Hall of Fame is also in town, and I just love Halls of Fame of any kind. Search out the Lincoln Motel, Pete's Diner, and the grave of Bill Tilghman, a saloon owner from Dodge City, Kansas, who later became a famous deputy U.S. Marshall in the Oklahoma City area. The photos above are from Chandler's "cottage style" Phillips gas station, with some mean looking Ford Pickups and a brick exterior that is just the perfect place to paint a Route 66 shield. Log Book: 804 miles motored on old 66.    

Oklahoma Route 66 - Stroud

     Small town Stroud was mostly in the saloon business as the 20th century began, went dry with Oklahoma statehood in 1907, then benefited around this same time with the discovery of all that oil nearby. Route 66 was built through the center of town in the 1920's, and in 1946 Jack Rittenhouse reported on the Mother Road's local benefits. He found several tourist courts, a few gas stations and a hotel, local small businesses all. The Rock Cafe (top) was built in 1936 for the hungry Oklahoma traveler passing through Stroud. Rittenhouse also reported that the thriving town was also a busy agricultural trading center. But times change. The construction of the Turner Turnpike (now I-44) in the 1950's, a real early 66 bypass, slowed the tourist trade. The Oklahoma oil booms finally went bust in the 1980's. Since then Stroud has had to scramble a bit, and there is today a 90 acre industrial park in town looking for tenants. I commuted for a few years into New York City, and assume a number of the town's 2,700 residents can always do the same, if need be, with an interstate drive to Tulsa (48 miles) or Oklahoma City (55 miles). On the positive side, Stroud was recognized in 2005 as the Grape and Wine Capital of Oklahoma, with 15 wineries within 50 miles. This an excellent tourist draw, no doubt, as is the city's downtown, which has an authentic and friendly Route 66 look to it.
     Stroud is a fun little 66 stop. You can always tell your friends you lunched at the Rock Cafe, a place built from the stones left over from the construction of Route 66. The town's murals are most awesome, as is the turn of the century architecture, including the Stroud Trading Company building (4th photo) which also served for a while as the town's opera house. Become a Stroud American for a couple of hours. Log Book: 789 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Sapulpa

     

     A city of about 20,000 people today, Sapulpa started out as a railroad station in 1886, was chartered as a town in 1898, then had the good fortune of being just 6 miles away when the Glenn Pool oilfield was discovered, in 1905. Apart from the oil boom, Sapulpa is known for its glassware industry and for the manufacturing of brick and clay products. Frankoma Pottery was a longtime 66 attraction, established in Sapulpa in 1938 where it benefited from being located on the main highway that 66 served as for many years. The pottery factory closed down in 2011, another unfortunate break for those who delayed taking that 66 trip. George William Miller, the 65th Secretary of the Treasury, was born in Sapulpa, but you already knew that.

     These images from the outskirts of Sapulpa conjure up what I originally expected to find all along modern day Route 66 - narrow country lanes, crumbling concrete and brick roadways, and long abandoned antiques like the Rock Creek Bridge and Tee Pee Drive-In. Of course, my original expectations came from all the 66 literature and photography that tends to focuses on such vintage stuff. And rightly so that it does. But we all know better now. Log Book: 744 miles motored on old 66.   

Oklahoma Route 66 - Tulsa

     With a population close to 400,000, and a modest but respectable skyline, I rank Tulsa as one of the "big city" stops on Route 66, along with Chicago, St. Louis, Oklahoma City, Albuquerque, and Los Angeles. Cyrus Avery, the "Father of Route 66," was from Tulsa, so here is where it all began. Mr. Avery owned a gas station, a restaurant, and a tourist court in Tulsa, went to Washington in 1925 to help establish the Federal Highway System, which included Route 66, then ran the new road right by his businesses. What a country! 

     Tulsa was the "Oil Capital of the World" in the early part of the 20th century, and since Art Deco was "in" at the time, much of the local architecture reflects that style, right down to the churches. The Metro Diner, where Elvis ate, was built in the 1980's (and torn down, sorry to say, just a few years ago to make way for a University of Tulsa expansion), so it really wasn't authentic Route 66. But it sure looked the part, and hosted many 66 roadies during its time.

     Here's some advice for the two-lane Route 66 traveler: Don't rely on a hotel's directions when it comes time to stop for the night. They will be tailored for the interstate traveler, not for you, something you don't want to discover after a long day on the Mother Road. I made that mistake in Tulsa, and got a lengthy, unscheduled after-dark look at a large portion of the city as I drove in circles looking for I-44. I had pulled into town on 11th Street at dusk, drove until I passed some of the bigger buildings uptown, yawned, then took my last pictures of the evening. That should have capped a great day on 66, except for the fact that Exit 229 means nothing to someone on 11th Street. Log Book: 733 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Blue Whale

     The famous Blue Whale of Catoosa, Oklahoma, a Mom & Pop operation that is just classic Route 66. Built in the early 1970's by Mr. Hugh Davis as a gift to his wife, the site quickly became the old swimmin' hole for local Catoosians. It was open to the public for a time with lifeguards and everything, but closed down for a stretch with the grounds and fish falling into disrepair. The site was later restored with the help of local volunteers, following a pattern we see a lot of on 66. The old blue fish is in top condition today, and is a must stop for all 66ers.
     I went a little overboard photo wise at the site, capturing the huge maw, the belly of the beast, the slide, the deck, and the nearby dock. But any real 66er will tell you that a half dozen pictures of the old Blue Whale is not over doing it. Log Book: 716 miles motored on old 66. 

Oklahoma Route 66 - Claremore

     This is the famous Will Rodgers Hotel in Claremore, Oklahoma, nowadays an apartment complex for senior citizens. (Any retired 66 roadies in the house?) In the old days, before the U.S. Atomic Energy Commission was established, the hotel offered radium baths to its guests. There is a Will Rogers Museum on Will Rogers Boulevard, this being the old comedians home town, and if you have a hankering to see 20,000 guns, the nearby J.M. Davis Museum can accommodate you. Also find the Belvidere Mansion, the Lynn Riggs Memorial (he was a playwright), and a bunch of local antique shops to round out a pleasant walkabout in Claremore.
     Will Rogers was before my time, of course, but I do know he would have changed his mind had he met any of my old bosses. Log Book: 704 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Afton

Don't know much about this old motel in Afton, when it was built, or even if this sign is still there today. It just makes for a great rusty Route 66 photograph! From my 2006 trip. Log Book: 649 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Nine Foot Section

Just south of Miami, and a little tricky to find and follow, is a section of old, old Route 66 this is just a hoot to drive because it is only 9 feet wide. (Including curbs!) Constructed between 1919 and 1921 as Highway 7, it was later claimed by Route 66 at the more famous road's inception in 1926. It is one of several sections of the Mother Road known as the Sidewalk Highway, built only wide enough for one vehicle at a time. 66 legend has it that frugal local officials were able to build their section of the road twice as long by making it only half as wide. (Or maybe in those dangerous early days of auto travel, most road trips were only in one direction anyway, with the driver never to be heard from again. No return trip necessary!) Used now as a side road between farms, I had to pull way over onto the shoulder several times to let the local pickup trucks pass. Log Book: 653 miles motored on old 66.

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Oklahoma Route 66 - Miami

      As we travel west, Route 66 continues to connect many of the the cities and towns in the Tri-State (Kansas, Missouri, and Oklahoma) mining district, which produced lead and zinc for 120 years. Peak production in the district occurred between 1918 and World War II, and slowly declined after the war. The last active mine, near Baxter Springs, Kansas, closed in 1970. The city of  Miami experienced the same early 20th Century mining boom as the rest of the region, with miners and support people flocking to live and work in the area. Route 66 came along during the boom, in the late 1920's.

     Miami was lucky, at least for a while. In 1943, just as the mining era began its decline, the B. F. Goodrich company built a tire plant in the city. That plant supported the economy for over forty years, until its closing in 1986. Today, the mix of companies in town is not as solid as it could be. Blitz USA, in business since World War II and the largest manufacturers of gas cans in the United States, the "leader in portable fuel containment," nonetheless filed Chapter 11 in 2011. Miami also hosts some entities that offer only modest growth potential, including a couple of colleges, a 117 bed hospital, and the Stables Casino. ("High stakes bingo" anyone?) As for Route 66's effect on the local economy, I believe it was also always modest at best, as a city as large as Miami (13,500+ residents today) can amply support the restaurants and other roadside businesses in town without the increased traffic. 

     The Coleman Theater serves as the top 66 attraction in Miami. Mine owner George L. Coleman settled in Miami during the early boom times, and he built the theater in town that bears his name in 1929. Take a look inside at the "Mighty Wurlitzer" pipe organ, and marvel at the fact that the Three Stooges played there. Then have a burger at Waylan's as you head out of town, Onionhead. Log Book: 633 miles motored on old 66.

Oklahoma Route 66 - Commerce

    Here it is! Mickey Mantle Boulevard in Commerce, Oklahoma, formerly Route 66.
    Now that you know, don't be a bonehead and steal one of the signs from this old mining community, show some class and order one from the local Fire Department instead. It's just a $24 donation. (Commerce Fire Dept., Commerce, OK 74339) Log Book: 629 miles motored on old 66.

Kansas Route 66 - Baxter Springs

     Baxter Springs was a cow town until the early 1870's, when complaints by local ranchers led the Kansas legislature to ban Texas cattle from entering eastern Kansas. The cattle drives were replaced with lead and zinc mining in the early 1900's, with the town serving mostly as a host to mining company offices. With the prohibition of most mining within the city limits, Baxter Springs also attracted mine owners and operators to establish their homes there. This lack of local mining prevented the chat piles, lead contamination and scarred landscapes that other towns in the area suffered, and still endure today. Route 66 ran right down Main Street starting in 1926, adding to the towns prosperity, but not a real big deal compared to the mines.

     The last hurrah for the mining industry in the area was World War II, with the boom in demand you would expect, but post war, the industry declined as extraction lead to lower grade ores that sold for lower prices, and was less in demand. Route 66 was bypassed in the 1960's, and Main Street took another hit. But Baxter Springs has recovered since then, with the city diversifying into other businesses, industry and agriculture. Several companies have their headquarters and manufacturing plants in town, providing ample opportunity for the 4000+ residents. These include ATEC Steel, Blaylock Turbochargers, and King Louie America, the "number one supplier of Union Made in the USA apparel."

     66 legend has it that the Cafe on the Route, at one time the Crowell Bank, was robbed in 1876 by none other than Jesse James. I believe this story because it seems that only important and famous people are associated with Route 66, and because it is more fun to believe it than not when strolling through town. The bottom picture is of Bill Murphy's restaurant which also was a bank at one time, and yes, it too was the scene of a robbery. Log Book: 617 miles motored on old 66.

Kansas Route 66 - Rainbow Marsh Bridge

Two miles west of Riverton is an old Route 66 crossing of Brush Creek, the Rainbow Marsh Bridge. (Two other Marsh Arch bridges of this type were built on Route 66 in Kansas, but those others are long gone.) It was built in 1923 and served an early 66 alignment, and the only restoration I've heard about is a new paint job to cover up a mess of accumulated graffiti. A replacement bridge was built nearby to handle modern day traffic, but I believe you can still drive over this bridge if you pull over to it and carefully negotiate your giant SUV across it. Just watch out for 66 sightseers and photographers on the narrow span. Log Book: 612 miles motored on old 66.

Kansas Route 66 - Eisler Brothers Store

     You should make a point to visit the Eisler Brothers Old Riverton store during your short tour of Kansas 66, even if it's just for some chips and a bottle of Route 66 Root Beer. There's a nice old-fashioned feel to the place, the kind of Mom and Pop business you used to ride your bike to back in your home town. (Usually following your mother's orders to pick up a bottle of milk.) There was a mix of people in the store on the day of my visit, with me and a couple of 66'ers from Spain browsing the old road memorabilia, several busy landscapers stopping in for some quick refreshments, and a local woman ordering over the deli counter. (John Wayne and James Dean were also in the store, near life size.) This mix of customers has been necessary since the early 1960's, when Kansas 66 was bypassed by Interstate 44. And the state was bypassed indeed, as I-44 connects Missouri to Oklahoma without any detour at all into Kansas. 
      The store was first opened in 1925 by Leo Williams and his wife Lora, who ran a general store inside and had gas pumps outside to draw in the early Route 66 traffic. Joe and Isabell Eisler of Allen, Texas, purchased and renamed the store in 1973, and operated the business for many years as a local convenience store and 66 attraction. (They even kept the original tin roof that I didn't know about. Never looked up even once.) The Eislers passed on in the late 2000's, and I found a nephew of the former Texans, Scott Nelson, behind the counter during my 2008 visit. In 2011, Mr. Nelson, who is also president of the Kansas Route 66 association, purchased the business from the Eisler's estate. We wish him every success with his small business, and with his overseeing of the famous 13.2 miles of Kansas 66. Log Book: 610 miles motored on old 66.

Route 66 - Just over the border into Kansas.

One of the many pleasures of traveling Route 66 is the frequent ability to just pull over to the side of the road when the mood strikes, whether to explore America away from the interstate, or to meet someone new.